Tyrol

Finally got there, after a hike on the bike; so this is Tyrol. All you have to do is take a quick look-see around to understand that the pedal-pumping was worth it. The air is crisp and bracing, the same air you gulped down in increasingly generous draughts on the bike, then there is the pristine prettiness of the alpine landscape, the wholesome appeal of the local fare and the cordiality of the locals; these are just a few of the things about Tyrol that you will immediately be impressed by.

Yes, the local inhabitants are certainly proud of their customs, but this should not put you off or lead you to thinking that this is the trappings of an insular disposition, discrimination and standoffishness.  No, what you see is for real, because the traditions that you find here have been nurtured and renewed and passed on from father to son. Just take the bands and singers for example, or the Schützen companies, the volunteers that once guaranteed the defence of the area, and, above all, the Jodler, the unmistakable yodelling calls that revoke those “hollered” across the valleys by alpine shepherds.

 One of the first small towns that you will encounter is Reutte, the largest centre of the Ausserfern, which has always been a thoroughfare valley for people and goods, and despite this has managed to maintain a way of being that is uncontaminated. This village found itself at the centre of the Thirty Years War but the evidence of heritage dating back to Medieval times adorning the streets alludes to a more ancient and glorious past. Your appetite for the history of Reutte can be easily satisfied by browsing around the Heimatmuseum, a museum that will tell you all about the local traditions. But the whole area of Reutte will spoil you for choice if your soul wants to feast on natural beauty; you cannot miss taking a walk along the local paths in the Alpenblumengarten - brushing up on the local flora along the way - the botanical gardens that perch on the peak of the Hahnenkamm, at the dizzy attitude of 1,700 meters. But after all this outdoor exercise, perhaps you are ready for putting local hospitality to the test, so why not exchange alpine air for atmosphere that you can sup up in abundance at any one of the many typical inns.

Reutte is called the cradle of the Via Claudia Augusta that snakes its way across the Alps. The good thing, though, is that it is also a cycle route which can be tackled even by less keen fitness aficionados and it is great for families. There is even a shuttle service that comes to the aid of the less fit and able when the going gets tough and the terrain begins to climb like at the Fernpass and the Passo Resia/Reschenpass. But it is worth putting in the legwork and once you get to the top the fabulous views and landscapes will literally leave you breathless! Along the route between Reutte and Heiterwang, the itinerary passes by the hermitage of Ehrenberg that was originally a lock and a toll point. The ruins of Ehrenberg castle, the Claudia on the Falkenberg blockhouse and the so-called High Castle form the walled complex that bears witness to the progress of military architecture – whether stronghold or defence works – spanning five centuries of history. You will be reminded on stopping there that zarevič Aleksej, son of Peter the Great was one of a number of personalities to have stayed at Ehrenberg. Particularly eye-catching is the unusual Gothic chapel under the roof of the hermitage built out of wooden planks. Continuing along the route - at an altitude of 1,070 meters - you will come upon the small hamlet of Bichlbach, whose claim to fame is that it conserves the only church of the corporations remaining in Austria. The edifice was built by humble bricklayers, stonebreakers with hands covered in calluses and country carpenters. It will come as no surprise, therefore, that the church is dedicated to Saint Joseph, the Patron Saint of workers.

 But also the food has that down-to-earth quality and wholesomeness associated with the Tyrolese. You will have plenty to get your tongue around and spoon into, such as the Griesnockerlsuppe (semolina dumpling soup) or the more basic Nudelsuppe (Noodle soup), dowsed with hot broth and recommended in this part of the world as the best way for keeping colds at bay. But that was just the first course; for the main one, you could not make a better choice than a Tiroler Leber (Tyrol-style liver) or a Tiroler Rindsbraten (Tyrol-style roast beef), excellent prime-quality local meat dishes. But the real specialty here is speck – a smoky-flavoured bacon – that can be eaten finely sliced or as diced cubes. And you really cannot say that you have eaten here without having tried the famous Hauswürste, the typical Tyrolese sausages that should be eaten piping hot with soft bread or the ubiquitous Bretzel. And to round of a good dinner, savour the Kiachln, typical sweet cakes that are served warm with jam. Well, perhaps this is a menu better suited to the gourmet; if, instead, you are counting the calories then at least allow yourself a sinful slice of mouth watering Apfelstrudel, yes, this is apple strudel that you will be pleased to know they also make divinely in South Tyrol.

 Once you have recovered from the big meal, the Fernpass will help you work off the extra pounds. You have to get up and over it. The Claudia Augusta road passes through this alpine pass that has been used since ancient times by merchants, soldiers and travellers. Once you have tackled the Fernpass you can get second wind passing through Nassereto and the “Gurgltal” valley, a naturalistic dream that will take you to the small town of Imst. You will not find a better place to quench your thirst than Imst. It is a town that has strong water ties that go back to its ancient origins. The Romans that settled here in fact called the town Oppidum Humiste, or “flowing spring” and you if you take a brief tour around the historic centre of the town you will not fail to notice that there are 21 fountains embellishing the streets. As they say, every name tells a story. After having taken of these excellent waters, you should dedicate a little time to discovering the corners of this small picturesque centre which, with its Baroque houses and palazzos, is an artistic itinerary in itself. After all the effort, you can now treat yourself to a Mozartkugel, the famous chocolates that pay tribute to the great Mozart; they will titillate your taste-buds and the flavour is as lingering as any one of the maestro’s symphonies… If you still have a bit of time on your hands and want to see a bit more of this town, go take a look at the imposing parish church of Our Lady of the Assumption, with its proud Gothic features and exhibiting the highest bell tower in Tyrol at 85-meters.

…And when you feel that intellect and soul have been nurtured enough and perhaps its time to indulge in a couple more gastronomic pleasures, here are a few more Tyrolese specialties to boost your energy and mood; try the Tyrol-style dumplings (Knödl), made from speck and breadcrumbs based on a recipe that is older than anyone remembers. You will find that there are many variations on the dumpling theme, so why not try those made with meat called Fleischknödl or cheese (Kasknödl) or ricotta soft cheese called Topfenknödl. A typical Tyrolese main course is rack of pork cooked in beer and served with piping-hot sauerkraut or the Gröstl, which are savoury potato cakes made of small pieces of meat, ham, potatoes and eggs. To finish off, you can enjoy a Kaiserschmarren, a crepe with red bilberries that is and was so good that it became the favourite dessert of Kaiser Franz Joseph of Austria. And as an after-dinner liqueur, order one of the locally distilled dry schnaps.

If you are lucky enough to visit Imst during the right period, that is during the Fasnacht, or Carnival Week, do not miss the Schemenlaufen, which literally means “Ghost Race”. It’s a parade in which hundreds of people take part all dressed up in old traditional costumes, sporting bells and stunning wooden masks that re-evoke the characters of the local Sagas and legends. Another highly enjoyable Carnival festival is the Fasnacht held in the Nassereith area, where the masks of Roller and Scheller, personifying Spring and Winter, hold the stage. It is almost superfluous adding that the Via Claudia Augusta fil rouge linking up so much natural beauty should also just happen to pass through here…

 After the River Danube, you will come upon another River that is no less important, the River Inn, which traces out this the valley through which this pretty section of the Via Claudia Augusta passes. The River Inn is an impressive waterway that covers 510 kilometres taking in the Engardina, Tyrol and Bavaria along its course. Its source is in the Swiss Alps that were a favourite subject of artist Giovanni Segantini who depicted their perfect whiteness. If you were looking for an excuse to get out of the saddle for a while, then why not try your hand at rafting and kayaking in this natural water park.

The most remarkable thing about this thousand-year old road is that you get the best of both worlds – nature and culture. So fish out the glasses and notebook because you are about to encounter Landeck, an old crossroad town with art and history in abundance. Up to this point, you have already covered a fair number of miles; you have seen castles and palazzos, splendid churches and museums crammed with interesting artefacts. But, as they say, beauty never tires and you can never get enough of it! Strolling through this town centre, take time to visit the parish church of Our Lady of the Ascension (Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt) that is located in the highest part of the town and you will spot its tall bell tower immediately. When you arrive, just take a few minutes to stand and contemplate the magnificent low-relief work of the main doors that dates back to the first part of the 16th Century. But the most spectacular piece awaits you deep inside the church. You will not be prepared for anything like the main altar. It is a 16th Century ornamental cover that depicts the adoration of the Three kings and is testimony in itself to the fact that artistic talents have ancient roots in the area. You can see more of this tradition if you decide to visit the 13th century castle that today hosts a museum of popular art and culture of the Landbeck district. Yet, another worthwhile opportunity to discover a bit more about the traditions of the area. However, there is another tradition that the museum does not mention and that is the local excellent schnapps that has also made a name for itself abroad and which you can taste in any one of the numerous bars or distilleries that are dotted around the Landbeck area.
 Above the Inn valley, at an altitude of 1,073 meters, there is the Fliess, a small town that hosts the interesting regional archaeological museum that will allow you to brush up on your Roman history and features numerous exhibits from Roman times that have been found along this section of the Via Claudia Augusta. Next to the archaeological museum there is a documentary centre that is dedicated to the Via Claudia Augusta. Since you are here, why not also visit the Church of Saint Barbara which has a dual tower and somehow manages to reconcile two architectural styles that would in any other context be unimaginable: Baroque and Neoclassical. You will already have noticed that the climate is not exactly the tropics but there are other ways to keep warm other than downing schnapps, especially if you are hiking it along the Via Claudia Augusta and it is not mid-August and you need to cover up. We are talking here of the typical Tyrolese garment, the “loden” coat, which is probably the most characteristic and obvious sign that local traditions are alive and in use. The loden started off life as a poor folks coat but now you can buy them made of the finest top quality wools and even cashmere that undergo a special process that gives the fabric that typical loden finish. The loden is a classic, timeless wardrobe piece and is fashionable in many other places way beyond the Tyrol. If you still have some room in that backpack of yours, this could be the perfect memento to take home with you.
 Okay, got the new clothes and fed and watered at an inn, it is now time to re-embrace nature that will never get any better that the uncontaminated landscapes that you will find here. The Kaunergrat natural park that takes in nine municipalities offers a wealth of plant and animal life and, incredibly, over 1,100 species of butterfly that are more colourful than even tropical fish. You will also find many easy walking routes that lead up to old refuges and alpine farms where you can stop and sample a slice of excellent local cheese. If you are feeling adventurous, you can also go on a kind of alpine safari, accompanied by a local guide, and observe ibex and other free-ranging animals. Just like being in one of Sir David Attenborough’s documentaries!
 Scattered around the area, there are many other villages and small towns that are worth a visit before crossing the border and returning to Italy. One of these is Pfunds, an ancient Roman vicus, while in the hamlet of Stuben you will find a church that is a late-Gothic treasure, featuring a wealth of 5th Century frescos and an ornamental altar cover that has been fashioned from an even older panel-altar, a common feature of all Germanic regional churches, and a sublime Gesamstkunstwek (total work of art) consisting of painting, sculpture, and even applied crafts, the same that you discover in the arts and crafts stores to be found in all the towns and whose wares will captivate and delight you.

Leaving Pfunds and taking the route along the River Inn, you will encounter the walled complex of Altfinstermünz, a military layout located in the vicinity of the Swiss border. Here, at the “fines tra munt” gorge, the Via Claudia Augusta crosses the River Inn. The military complex of Altfinstermünz can boast an imposing tower that rises up defending the bridge, used up to 1845 by people and goods on their way to the Passo Resia/Reschenpass; the fortress of Siegmundseck that can be accessed via a steep path beginning in a natural cavity and snaking its way through the rocks; the grandiose five-storey hermitage that was originally a customs and excise warehouse for the territory under the local Hapsburg prince, and subsequently became a court and then an inn and brewery; and finally, the chapel dedicated to the to Vergine Maria del Soccorso, built in 1605 and recently restored. You will find the section of the road between Altfinstermünz and Nauders particularly demanding and you should be physically fit enough to attempt it as it cannot be covered by bike. But this is not a problem because you can simply hop onto the shuttle bus that leaves Pfunds, which will take you effortlessly to Nauders!

Nauders is a centre that is known for winter sports but can be appreciated all year round. The Romans also found their way up here to this altitude of 1,365 meters and called the place Inutrium, developing the area as a stopover along the Via Claudia Augusta. It is recommended that you stop over too and take your fill of hot and wholesome fare before setting off to discover the late-Gothic parish church Pfarrkirche zum heiligen Valentin and, above all, in the vicinity of Burg Naudersberg, the Leonhardskapelle, a chapel where you can admire Romanesque frescos that were lovingly and skilfully painted over 800 years ago.

 And there you have it. You have managed to get to the border using only your muscle power. And this is a multi-national border where Austria, Italy and Switzerland meet up. It may seem fairly quiet now, but at one time it was the site of bloodthirsty armies on the lookout for enemies. And, moreover, today these frontiers have been removed and the peoples reunited under the European flag; instead of marauding armies, you will only see other fellow bike-trekkers free to enjoy the delights and sights of this truly remarkable part of the world that is the Via Claudia Augusta. If you look up, you will see the old castle of Nauders, once an imposing symbol of military prowess but now looking down with a kind of benevolence and mellowness acquired over time. As a final thought, you really ought to go up there and take a closer look because you will be surprised and happy to learn that it is now an excellent restaurant where you can raise a final glass in a toast saying Prosit! And farewell to Austria and hello to Italy.